Dr Craig Drummond
Cullen Wines: An international success story
Cullen Wines was established in 1971 at Wilyabrup in the heart of the Margaret River region by Dr Kevin Cullen and his wife Diana.
About the Author
Dr Craig Drummond
They were among the first to identify the viticultural potential of the region. Diana Cullen took on the winemaking and was integral in putting Margaret River on the Australian wine map, and later the world wine map.
Today, daughter Vanya Cullen is at the helm with her wine making prowess and refined palate projecting Cullen Wines to international fame. Her Chardonnays and Bordeaux blend reds are highly sought after.
The vineyards are run on organic and biodynamic principles — harvest decisions being aligned with lunar cycles and biodynamic calendars — and were the first in Australia to be certified carbon neutral.
Grapes are dry-grown to create low yields, hence the flavour intensity. All work is by hand and winemaking is 'natural', with wild-fermentations and no additions and interventions beyond minimal sulphur. The result is wines of real character that combine early drinkability with amazing longevity.
The wines
Red Moon Malbec Blend 2024, RRP $35
A blend of Malbec, Grenache, Mourvedre, Petit Verdot and Merlot resulting in a mélange of flavour, dominant redcurrant and mulberry coming through with a slight gamey background. A balanced, mellow, easy drinking wine. Soft, supple tannins. Has the structure to drink well for a few more years.
Grace Madeline Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2025, RRP $50
Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon, a contrast in style to the Elvie Clarke with a large portion of the Sav Blanc given seven months in new French oak. The resulting wine is more complex and robust and with significant ageing potential. Nose displays green capsicum, lime and roasted cashew with flavours of gooseberry, dried herbs and some lanolin coming through. Integral oak gives structure and adds weight. A Bordeaux style but with Cullen's wonderful fruit brightness.
Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2024, RRP $50
Consists of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot given eight months in French oak. Quintessentially Margaret River with its deep youthful colour, enticing aromas of cassis and oak and a full palate of blackcurrant/cassis, black olive, fine grained tannins and a background slightly gravelly earthiness. Sumptuous and supple. Good drinking now but with years left in it yet.
Elvie Clarke Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2024, RRP $35
A blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon and Verdelho. Nose lifted and vibrant, with a slight background pungency giving extra character. A very integrated palate showing Sav Blanc's vibrancy and Semillon's solidarity and grassy herbaceous notes. Grapefruit and lime flavours abound. Absence of oak lets the fruit 'sing'. A style for which this region is famous. Drinking wonderfully now.
Cullen Wine's vineyards are run on organic and biodynamic principles.
Dancing in the Moonlight Rose 2025, RRP $33
A savoury complex yet refreshing rose style. Uses all the Cullen's red varieties incorporating the saignee production method (free run juice from just crushed grapes). Displays an attractive onion skin colour, and rose water and Turkish delight fruit characters, with a dry penetrating mouthfeel. A wine to consume with food. Drink now or for several years to come.
Reviewer's Pick
Ephraim Malbec & Petit Verdot Blend 2024, RRP $50
Blend of Malbec 70% and Petit Verdot 30% given eight months' maturation in oak. A bold, opulent wine. Amazing black/deep purple colour. Nose is rich and concentrated showing mulberry and soy. Palate has fruit power - dark plum, bramble berry, dark chocolate. Tannins firm and gripping, oak integrating. Commanding current drinking, but with that Cullen's structural integrity will mellow and go another 15 years.